Freeze-drying in cosmetics to adapt to consumer trends
With growing consumer demand for more natural, ecological, transparent and effective cosmetic products, formulators are turning to freeze-drying as their solution of choice. Thanks to this drying process, the active ingredients can be preserved without the need to add preservatives, representing a significant advance in the stability and durability of cosmetic products.
This article examines the reasons why freeze-drying is becoming increasingly attractive to cosmetic formulators and how this process allows them to propose innovative and sustainable formulations adapted to new consumer trends.
What are the technical advantages of freeze-drying cosmetic formulations?
Compared to other drying techniques, freeze-drying is unique in its ability to preserve the bioactivity of cosmetic ingredients. Freeze-drying is based on the principle of cold drying at low temperatures, which protects the most sensitive active ingredients.
Preservation of active ingredients. Preserving active ingredients is a real challenge for cosmetic manufacturers and is crucial to ensuring the effectiveness of the final product. Freeze-drying is particularly well suited for unstable active ingredients that are sensitive to heat and moisture. Whether vitamins, enzymes or plant extracts, transforming them into freeze-dried powder enables formulators to ensure their stability over time.
Flexibility in formulations. A freeze-dried ingredient can be incorporated into a variety of formulations, such as dry formulations (e.g., compact powders or dry masks) or formulations that require rehydration (e.g., gels or creams). This gives formulators the freedom to explore innovative and varied textures.
How does freeze-drying meet the expectations of cosmetic consumers?
Consumers are increasingly looking for natural and transparent formulations and are moving away from synthetic preservatives. This demand for naturalness represents a real challenge for cosmetic formulators, who must adapt to market needs while ensuring product safety and longevity.
Preservative-free cosmetics. To prevent bacteria from growing in water-based cosmetics, preservatives must be added. Freeze drying meets this need by removing water from formulations. It meets the Clean Beauty standards, which advocate minimalist, clean formulations without questionable ingredients. Incorporating freeze-dried active ingredients therefore simplifies the composition of products and at the same time meets the expectations of consumers who seek formulations without synthetic preservatives.
More natural and sustainable cosmetics. There is a growing consumer demand for more natural and sustainable cosmetics, such as anhydrous cosmetics. Besides the fact that an anhydrous product contains no water and therefore generally no preservatives, its use has other advantages which address consumer concerns. They reduce the environmental footprint by limiting water use throughout the product lifecycle, from formulation to packaging. This type of product is often more concentrated, reducing the amount of application needed to be effective. Their compactness and light weight also reduce packaging and shipping costs, thus contributing to a reduction in CO₂ emissions. Freeze-dried ingredients integrate perfectly into these formulations, allowing us to design concentrated and cost-effective products and light-weight packaging.
Groupe Berkem’s customized freeze-drying service
As part of its customized product development services, Groupe Berkem offers tailor-made freeze-drying of various finished products and raw materials for specific markets. This makes it possible to address the preservation and transport challenges faced by manufacturers of plant materials and sensitive products in the nutraceutical, cosmetic, agri-food and life sciences sectors. Groupe Berkem’s historical expertise, state-of-the-art equipment and internal resources allow it to offer a personalized service for every request.
